- Levels of decontamination (lowest to highest)
- Sanitation, then disinfection, then sterilization — increasing control over microorganisms.
- Sanitation
- The lowest level of decontamination; cleaning that reduces the number of germs but does not kill all pathogens. Always the first step before disinfecting.
- Disinfection
- Kills most pathogens on hard, non-porous surfaces with an EPA-registered, hospital-grade disinfectant; does not destroy all bacterial spores. The salon standard for multi-use tools.
- Sterilization
- The highest level of decontamination; destroys all microbial life, including bacterial spores, typically with an autoclave.
- Autoclave
- A device that uses pressurized steam and high heat to achieve true sterilization of implements; not used for porous, single-use items.
- Order of operations for an implement
- Clean first, then disinfect, then sterilize if required. You cannot disinfect a dirty tool.
- Required salon disinfectant
- Must be EPA-registered and hospital-grade — labeled bactericidal, virucidal, and fungicidal.
- Single-use (disposable) items
- Wax sticks, cotton pads, and sponges are discarded after one use and never reused.
- Four types of microorganisms to guard against
- Bacteria, viruses, fungi, and parasites.
- How a virus differs from a bacterium
- A virus is much smaller, is not a complete cell, and must invade a host cell to replicate; bacteria are single-celled organisms that reproduce on their own.
- Standard (universal) precautions
- Infection-control practices that treat all blood and body fluids as potentially infectious because carriers can't be identified by sight.
- First step if a client is nicked and bleeds
- Stop, apply gloves, and follow the exposure-control procedure for bloodborne pathogens.
- Most effective everyday infection-control measure
- Handwashing — the hands are the main route germs travel from surfaces and people to a client's skin.
- Purpose of wearing gloves
- To protect against contact with blood and body fluids; gloves supplement handwashing but never replace it.
- Bactericidal, virucidal, fungicidal
- A disinfectant labeled this way kills bacteria, viruses, and fungi — the level required for salon implements.
- Why an autoclave isn't used for cotton/sponges
- Porous, single-use items can't be effectively sterilized and reused; they are discarded instead.
- Why an esthetician must wear gloves with possible blood contact
- To prevent transmission of bloodborne pathogens between the esthetician and clients.
- Two main layers of the skin
- The epidermis (outer, avascular) and the dermis (thick, living layer with collagen, vessels, nerves, and glands).
- Epidermis
- The outermost layer of the skin; has no blood vessels and contains five sublayers, with new cells made in the deepest and shed from the surface.
- Dermis
- The thick living layer beneath the epidermis containing collagen and elastin, blood vessels, nerves, glands, and hair follicles.
- Epidermal layers (base to surface)
- Stratum germinativum (basal), spinosum, granulosum, lucidum, and corneum.
- Stratum corneum
- The outermost epidermal layer of flat, dead, keratin-filled cells (corneocytes) continually shed by desquamation — the skin's protective barrier.
- Stratum germinativum (basal layer)
- The deepest epidermal layer, where mitosis generates new keratinocytes; it also houses the melanocytes.
- Keratinization
- The process by which epidermal cells fill with keratin and die as they move from the basal layer to the surface, forming the horny layer.
- Keratinocyte
- The main epidermal cell, which produces keratin and forms the protective barrier as it matures and rises to the surface.
- Melanocyte
- A cell in the basal layer that produces melanin, the pigment that colors skin and helps protect it from ultraviolet light.
- Melanin
- The pigment made by melanocytes that gives skin, hair, and eyes color and absorbs UV light; more is produced with sun exposure.
- Collagen
- A fibrous dermal protein made by fibroblasts that gives skin strength and firmness; declines with age and sun damage.
- Elastin
- A dermal protein fiber that gives skin elasticity — the ability to stretch and snap back; its loss causes sagging.
- Fibroblast
- A dermal cell that produces collagen and elastin, maintaining skin structure and resilience.
- Cell
- The basic structural and functional unit of all living tissue, including skin; directed by its nucleus.
- Nucleus
- The part of a cell that directs its activities and contains the genetic material.
- Sebaceous gland
- An oil-producing gland connected to a hair follicle that secretes sebum to lubricate skin and hair; most numerous on the face, scalp, and back.
- Sebum
- The oily secretion of the sebaceous glands that lubricates skin and hair and contributes to the acid mantle.
- Sudoriferous gland
- A sweat gland that excretes sweat to help regulate body temperature and eliminate some waste; a skin appendage.
- Acid mantle
- The thin, slightly acidic film of sebum and sweat on the skin's surface that inhibits bacteria and fungi and supports the barrier.
- Normal skin pH
- Slightly acidic, about 4.5 to 5.5 — the range of a healthy acid mantle.
- pH scale
- A scale from 0 to 14: below 7 is acidic, 7 is neutral, above 7 is alkaline (basic). Healthy skin is slightly acidic.
- Photoaging
- Premature skin aging caused primarily by cumulative ultraviolet (sun) exposure rather than chronological age.
- Why sunscreen is the top anti-aging recommendation
- UV exposure drives most collagen and elastin loss (photoaging); daily broad-spectrum sunscreen prevents it.
- AHA (alpha hydroxy acid)
- A water-soluble exfoliating acid (glycolic, lactic) that loosens dead surface cells; best for dry, sun-damaged, and aging skin.
- BHA (beta hydroxy acid)
- An oil-soluble exfoliating acid (salicylic) that penetrates into the follicle to clear congestion; best for oily, acne-prone skin.
- AHA vs. BHA solubility
- AHAs are water-soluble (surface, dry/aging skin); BHA (salicylic) is oil-soluble (penetrates pores, oily/acne skin).
- Gentlest AHA
- Lactic acid — often chosen for sensitive or dry skin.
- Enzyme peel
- A gentle chemical exfoliation using enzymes (papain, bromelain) that digest keratin (dead protein) on the surface.
- Humectant
- A moisturizer ingredient (glycerin, hyaluronic acid) that attracts and binds water to hydrate the skin's surface.
- Occlusive
- A moisturizer ingredient (petrolatum) that forms a surface film to prevent transepidermal water loss, sealing in moisture.
- Emollient
- A moisturizer ingredient that smooths and softens the skin by filling gaps between surface cells.
- Emulsion
- A blend of two normally unmixable liquids (oil and water) held together by an emulsifier; most lotions and creams are emulsions.
- Emulsifier
- An ingredient that allows oil and water to mix and stay blended in an emulsion.
- Antioxidants
- Ingredients (vitamin C, vitamin E) that neutralize free radicals, limiting the oxidative damage that ages skin; often paired with sunscreen.
- Free radicals
- Unstable molecules, generated by UV light and pollution, that damage skin cells, collagen, and DNA and accelerate aging.
- Comedogenic
- Describing a product that tends to clog pores; non-comedogenic products are chosen for acne-prone skin.
- Trigeminal nerve
- The fifth cranial nerve — the chief sensory nerve of the face and the main motor nerve for chewing; has three branches.
- Facial nerve
- The seventh cranial nerve; the main motor nerve controlling the muscles of facial expression.
- Why facial massage nourishes the skin
- It boosts circulation, increasing the delivery of oxygen and nutrients and aiding the removal of waste.
- Comedone
- A clogged hair follicle filled with sebum and dead cells — the basic lesion of acne.
- Whitehead vs. blackhead
- A whitehead is a closed comedone (covered by skin); a blackhead is an open comedone, dark from oxidation of exposed material — not trapped dirt.
- Rosacea
- A chronic inflammatory condition of persistent central-face redness, visible capillaries, and flushing; avoid heat and harsh, stimulating treatments.
- Hyperpigmentation
- Darkening of the skin from excess melanin, appearing as spots or patches; worsened by sun exposure.
- Melasma
- A common hyperpigmentation of symmetrical brown patches on the cheeks, forehead, and upper lip, often triggered by sun and hormones.
- Hypopigmentation
- A loss or absence of melanin producing lighter patches of skin (e.g., vitiligo), the opposite of hyperpigmentation.
- ABCDE rule for melanoma
- Asymmetry, Border irregularity, Color variation, Diameter over ~6 mm, and Evolving — warning signs to refer to a physician.
- Melanoma
- The most serious, potentially life-threatening form of skin cancer; estheticians recognize warning signs and refer — never diagnose.
- Tinea
- A category of fungal skin infection (e.g., ringworm); contagious, so it contraindicates service and warrants referral.
- Herpes simplex (cold sore)
- A contagious viral lesion; an active outbreak contraindicates facials and waxing over the area until it heals.
- Primary vs. secondary lesion
- Primary lesions (macule, papule, vesicle) appear first; secondary lesions (crust, scar) develop later from primary ones.
- Papule
- A small, elevated, solid skin lesion (such as a small pimple) without fluid.
- Vesicle
- A small, fluid-filled primary lesion (blister), such as those of herpes simplex.
- Macule
- A flat, discolored spot on the skin with no elevation, such as a freckle.
- Psoriasis
- A chronic condition marked by red patches covered with silvery-white scales, from rapid skin cell turnover.
- Eczema (atopic dermatitis)
- An inflammatory condition causing dry, itchy, red, irritated skin; not contagious.
- Why an esthetician must not diagnose
- Diagnosis is outside an esthetician's scope and is a physician's role; the esthetician recognizes conditions and refers.
- Fitzpatrick scale
- A classification of skin into six types (I–VI) by response to UV light, from always-burns/never-tans to never-burns; gauges sun sensitivity and treatment risk.
- Fitzpatrick Type I
- Very fair skin that always burns and never tans — the highest sun sensitivity.
- Fitzpatrick Type VI
- Deeply pigmented dark brown to black skin that never burns.
- Why darker skin types need conservative treatment
- Higher Fitzpatrick types (IV–VI) have a greater risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation from aggressive peels, lasers, or microdermabrasion.
- Purpose of the client intake/health form
- To identify medications, allergies, conditions, and contraindications before service so the esthetician can plan a safe treatment.
- Wood's lamp
- A magnifying lamp with UV light used in skin analysis to reveal oil, dehydration, and pigmentation not visible in normal light.
- Contraindication
- A condition that makes a treatment unsafe, so the service must be modified, postponed, or declined.
- Isotretinoin (Accutane) and waxing
- A contraindication — the medication thins and weakens skin, so waxing can lift or tear the epidermis. Decline waxing.
- Contraindications to waxing an area
- Sunburn, open lesions or broken skin, recent retinoid use, and isotretinoin (Accutane) use.
- Pregnancy and esthetic services
- Reconsider galvanic/electrical current and certain essential oils as a precaution; a gentle basic facial is generally fine.
- Standard European facial sequence
- Consult/analyze, cleanse, exfoliate, steam and extractions, massage, treatment mask, then tone, moisturize, and protect (sunscreen).
- Effleurage
- A light, gliding, stroking massage movement used to begin and end a facial massage; soothing and relaxing.
- Pétrissage
- A kneading massage movement that lifts, squeezes, and presses tissue to improve circulation.
- Tapotement
- A light tapping or slapping massage movement; the most stimulating, used with caution or omitted on a relaxing or reactive facial.
- Direction of facial massage movements
- Generally from the center of the face outward and upward, following muscle and lymphatic flow.
- Purpose of facial steam
- Softens debris, hydrates, and opens follicles, easing gentle extractions.
- Why fill a steamer with distilled water
- To prevent mineral buildup that can clog and damage the steamer and impair its function.
- Extraction technique
- Performed gently over softened skin with gloved, cotton-wrapped fingertips using even pressure to clear comedones safely.
- Clay/kaolin mask
- An absorbent mask best for oily, congested skin — it draws out oil and impurities.
- Hydrating (cream/gel) mask
- A mask best for dry, dehydrated skin — it adds and seals in moisture.
- Galvanic current
- A constant, direct current used in facials for desincrustation (negative pole) and iontophoresis (product penetration).
- Desincrustation
- A galvanic step using the negative pole to soften and emulsify sebum and debris, easing extractions.
- Iontophoresis
- The use of galvanic current to drive water-soluble products into the skin.
- Anaphoresis vs. cataphoresis
- Anaphoresis (negative pole) softens and opens; cataphoresis (positive pole) soothes, firms, and closes — used to finish a galvanic treatment.
- High-frequency machine
- Valued for its germicidal, drying effect (useful after extractions on oily skin); avoid metal jewelry and alcohol-based products with it.
- Blue vs. red LED light
- Blue light targets acne-causing bacteria; red light promotes anti-aging, healing, and circulation.
- Esthetician scope for chemical peels
- Limited to superficial (epidermal) depth, using AHAs or BHA; medium and deep peels are outside scope.
- Microdermabrasion
- Mechanical exfoliation using crystals or a diamond tip with suction; contraindicated over active, inflamed acne.
- Salicylic acid peel
- A BHA superficial peel often chosen for oily, acne-prone skin because salicylic acid is oil-soluble and clears congestion.
- Patch test
- A small test application of a product 24–48 hours before service to check for an allergic reaction (e.g., before tinting or a first peel).
- Soft wax (strip wax)
- Applied thin and removed with a fabric strip; efficient for large areas like legs and arms.
- Hard wax (stripless)
- Applied thick, hardens, and is pulled off without a strip; gentler for sensitive areas (face, bikini) and grips coarse hair.
- Direction of wax application and removal
- Apply wax in the direction of hair growth; remove against the direction of growth.
- Why never double-dip a wax applicator
- Reusing the applicator in the wax pot spreads contamination between clients (cross-contamination).
- Sugaring
- A hair-removal method using natural sugar paste applied against the growth and removed with it; adheres to hair, not live skin.
- Threading
- Hair removal using twisted cotton thread to trap and lift hairs; no wax or chemicals touch the skin — ideal for sensitive or retinoid-using clients.
- Tweezing
- Removing individual hairs by the root with tweezers; used for shaping brows.
- Electrolysis
- The only hair-removal method recognized as truly permanent; destroys the follicle's growth cells with electric current, one hair at a time.
- Depilation vs. epilation
- Depilation removes hair at/above the surface (shaving, depilatory creams); epilation removes the whole hair with the root (waxing, tweezing). Both are temporary.
- Ingrown hair
- Forms when a regrowing hair curls back or grows sideways into the skin instead of out; gentle exfoliation after waxing helps prevent it.
- Eyebrow mapping start point
- The brow generally starts in line with the inner corner of the eye (the side of the nose).
- Eyebrow/lash tint patch test
- Required 24–48 hours before tinting to check for an allergic reaction near the sensitive eye area.
- Makeup color theory: neutralizing redness
- A green-toned corrector neutralizes red or rosy complexions (complementary colors cancel each other).
- Correcting bluish under-eye circles
- Use a peach or orange corrective tone to neutralize the bluish discoloration.
- Skin undertone and foundation
- Foundation is matched to the client's undertone (warm, cool, or neutral) so the color looks natural.
- Sunless tanner active ingredient
- Dihydroxyacetone (DHA), which reacts with amino acids in the skin's surface layer to produce a temporary brown color.
- Sun protection from a sunless tan
- Little to none — a sunless tan is cosmetic only, so the client still needs sunscreen.
- Body wrap vs. body scrub
- A body wrap mainly hydrates, softens, or detoxifies the skin; a body scrub mainly exfoliates dead surface cells.
- Most important daytime finishing product
- Broad-spectrum sunscreen — it protects freshly treated skin and preserves the result.
- Draping during a back facial or body treatment
- Protects the client's privacy and modesty while allowing access to the treatment area.
- Toner in a facial routine
- Applied after cleansing to remove residue, rebalance the skin's pH, and prep it for treatment products.
- Why serums penetrate better than creams
- Serums have smaller molecules and a thinner consistency, allowing active ingredients to reach the skin more readily.
- Aromatherapy facial precaution
- Verify the client has no allergy or sensitivity to the essential oils before use.
- Product order for layering (general rule)
- Apply thinnest to thickest — for example, toner, then serum, then moisturizer, then sunscreen for daytime.
