Your FREE ASE B3 Flashcards 2026 – 200+ Cards

Damage where the colliding object actually contacted the vehicle — the obvious crush at the point of impact. Also called primary damage.

Damage away from the contact point, caused as the impact force travels through the structure. Also called secondary damage.

A sharp fold or abrupt change in metal over a short distance; the metal is weakened, so a kinked part usually must be replaced.

A smooth, gradual deformation that transitions evenly from undamaged to damaged metal. A bend can often be straightened.

Damage from loose objects (cargo, spare tire, tools) that keep moving during the crash and strike panels from the inside.

The base material of a panel — mild steel, high-strength steel, or aluminum. It dictates allowable repair, heat, and welding methods.

Steel formulated for strength at lower weight. Advanced HSS often cannot be heated or straightened and must be sectioned or replaced.

Very high-strength steel used in safety structures; heat destroys its properties, so most AHSS parts are replaced, not repaired.

The vehicle maker's published instructions specifying approved methods, materials, weld types, sectioning locations, and replace-only parts.

Inspecting a vehicle to classify direct, indirect, and inertia damage and trace the path and direction of the impact force.

The line the collision force traveled; found by locating direct contact and tracing how damage radiates through the structure.

The documented sequence of operations, parts, and methods for a repair, based on damage analysis and OEM procedures.

Choosing whether to fix a panel or install a new one, based on substrate, damage severity (kink vs. bend), and OEM guidance.

Corrosion that occurs when dissimilar metals (e.g., aluminum and steel) contact; why aluminum needs isolated tools and a separate area.

A dedicated, isolated space and tool set for aluminum repair to prevent cross-contamination and galvanic corrosion.

Indirect damage beyond the visible impact, revealed by cracked seam sealer, broken spot welds, and misaligned gaps.

A tell-tale sign during analysis that collision force traveled through a joint, indicating hidden indirect damage.

Factory welds split open by impact force — evidence of hidden structural movement found during damage analysis.

Removing moldings, hardware, and trim before repair and documenting each piece's location for accurate reassembly.

Applying tape and paper to protect non-repair areas from overspray, dust, and damage during repair and refinishing.

Fitting a new or adjacent panel before final attachment to verify fit, gaps, and the true extent of hidden damage.

The spacing between adjacent panels; even, consistent gaps are a key target when fitting and adjusting body panels.

How even adjacent panel surfaces sit relative to one another; correct flushness is part of proper panel alignment.

Washing the damaged area first so dirt and debris don't hide cracks, creases, and the true extent of damage.

A written assessment of damage, parts, and labor; the B6 test covers estimating in depth, but B3 requires reading damage correctly.

A diagnostic scan that documents fault codes before repair so electronic systems can be verified afterward.

Rust found during prep that must be sanded out to bare, sound metal before any repair material is applied.

Checking core supports, rails, and floor seams for cracked sealer and broken welds to find hidden indirect damage.

Service and collision history reviewed during analysis to distinguish new damage from prior repairs.

Another name for direct vs. indirect damage — primary at the contact point, secondary as force travels onward.

Using a magnet, markings, and references to tell steel from aluminum before choosing a repair method.

An area an OEM forbids cutting/welding/heating; identified from the repair procedure before work begins.

Loosely assembling parts to confirm alignment and reveal hidden damage before committing to the repair.

Seams, flanges, and enclosed sections needing extra protection because moisture collects and rust starts there.

Reading the estimate/damage report during preparation to plan operations and confirm needed parts.

Replacing broken clips with new ones and reusing good fasteners so reinstalled trim fits tightly.

Checking neighboring panels for indirect damage and fit before finalizing a single-panel repair plan.

Joining panels with a two-part structural adhesive — no heat, so no weld distortion, and it seals the joint against corrosion.

A body hammer worked against a hand-held dolly behind the panel to shape and smooth dents during metal repair.

A tool that welds pins/studs to a dented panel so the dent can be pulled out from the outside (no backside access needed).

Drawing a dent back out with a stud welder and slide hammer or pull tabs, used where the backside is inaccessible.

Tightening stretched metal back to size and contour so it no longer oil-cans — by heat, a shrinking disc, or cold shrinking.

Metal with more surface area than the panel needs (from impact or over-working) that bulges or flutters until shrunk.

A loose, stretched panel area that pops in and out under light pressure; corrected by shrinking the metal.

Heating a small spot of stretched metal and quickly cooling (quenching) it to shrink it back toward its original shape.

Working slightly stretched metal back to size without added heat, using controlled hammer-and-dolly technique.

A friction disc that generates localized heat to shrink stretched metal; cooled to tighten the area.

Installing a new outer body panel when the original is kinked, torn, or too corroded to repair.

Replacing only the outer skin of a door; the window and lock mechanisms must be checked after installation.

Replacing a welded/bonded rear quarter panel, aligning it carefully with the roof and door for correct gaps.

A panel attached with fasteners (fender, hood, deck lid, door) that can be adjusted for gap and flushness.

A panel joined to the body by welds (quarter panel, rocker); removed by drilling/grinding out the spot welds.

The primary way to correct door alignment; hinges set up/down, in/out, and fore/aft position in the opening.

Adjusting the latch striker so the door latches cleanly — done after the door is positioned with the hinges.

Joining panels with structural adhesive plus rivets, used per OEM to preserve high-strength steel without high heat.

Replacing part of a panel by cutting at OEM-approved locations and joining new metal, rather than full replacement.

Aluminum relaxes with heat for easier shaping but needs isolated tools; it is welded or bonded differently than steel.

A coating applied to repaired metal to prevent corrosion where protective coatings were removed during repair.

A curved panel surface; metalwork must restore the original crown/contour for a correct fit and finish.

Applying tension to draw damaged metal back toward its original position before final shaping.

Tooling that holds a replacement panel in position for accurate test fitting and welding or bonding.

A drill-type cutter used to remove factory spot welds when separating a welded-on panel.

Whether you can reach behind a panel; determines if you use a hammer-and-dolly or must pull from the front with a stud welder.

An area engineered to deform and absorb energy; OEM procedures govern whether it is repaired or replaced.

Warping of thin or high-strength panels caused by welding heat; minimized by stitch welding or by bonding instead.

The overlapping edge where two panels join; cleaned and straightened before fitting a replacement.

A weighted tool that pulls dents outward when attached to studs, pins, or hooks welded/screwed to the metal.

Adhesive tabs bonded to a panel and pulled to remove dents without drilling or welding (paintless-style).

Setting a panel for even gaps and flush surfaces with its neighbors as the final fit step.

An OEM-approved location and method (butt, lap, sleeve) for joining new metal during a partial panel replacement.

Choosing a panel that matches the vehicle make, model, and substrate for correct fit and function.

Combining base and hardener in the correct ratio (often via a static mixer tip) for a proper structural bond.

Excess adhesive pushed from a bonded joint; confirms full coverage and is tooled before it cures.

A critical alignment when replacing a quarter panel; bonded or welded per OEM with correct gaps.

A special bit/cutter sized to remove a factory spot weld cleanly without enlarging the lower-panel hole.

The window after mixing structural adhesive during which panels must be joined before it starts to cure.

A polyester putty applied in thin layers over prepared metal to fill minor imperfections, then sanded smooth. A finishing material, not structural.

Sanding the edges of damaged paint and filler so the layers taper gradually into the surface, leaving a smooth, invisible transition.

Working a panel back to its true contour with hammers, dollies, picks, and files so little or no filler is needed.

A flat file (or 'cheese grater') used to check panel flatness and shave high spots from curing filler, exposing lows.

Raising minor low spots with a pick hammer and filing the highs to smooth small surface imperfections in metal.

Hammering to flatten and smooth a welded or worked area, refining the surface finish after welding.

A thin contrasting layer misted over filler/primer that disappears from highs and stays in lows, mapping imperfections.

Sanding with a flat block (not fingers) to level filler and primer into a truly flat, wave-free surface.

Common, easy-to-sand filler for non-structural repairs; applied in thin layers over clean, prepared metal.

A fine finishing filler applied in a thin layer over minor imperfections for a smooth surface before priming.

The correct way to apply filler — multiple thin coats adhere and cure properly; one thick layer shrinks and cracks.

Cleaning, degreasing, and sanding metal so body filler bonds properly and resists future delamination.

Removing oils and contaminants with a cleaner so paint, filler, and adhesives adhere correctly.

A primer-surfacer applied over cured, sanded filler to seal it, level minor flaws, and promote paint adhesion.

A primer that lightly etches bare metal for strong adhesion and corrosion resistance on small repair areas.

A durable corrosion-protective primer for bare metal, often the first coating on a repaired panel.

A thick primer-surfacer that fills fine sand scratches and minor lows, then is block-sanded flat.

The tapered, sanded edge of paint layers that blends a repair smoothly into the surrounding original finish.

An area below the panel's true contour, filled or raised so the finished surface is flat and even.

An area above the panel's true contour, knocked or filed down during metal finishing.

Progressively finer abrasives used to shape, smooth, and prepare filler and paint for refinishing.

The chemical hardening of catalyzed filler; file or sand at the right stage for the cleanest cut and best finish.

The cream activator mixed into body filler in the correct ratio to make it cure; too much or too little causes problems.

Voids from improper mixing or thick application that create pinholes; avoided by mixing well and applying thin.

A finishing hammer with crowned and/or flat faces used with a dolly to shape and smooth panel metal.

A shaped steel hand block held behind a panel as a backing for hammer work during metal finishing.

Tiny voids in cured filler from air bubbles; filled with glaze and re-sanded before priming.

Topcoat sinking into coarse scratches, showing them later; avoided with proper grit progression and sealing.

Priming exposed metal promptly after metalwork so it doesn't flash-rust before refinishing.

A contrast coat used when block-sanding a plastic repair to find highs and lows just as on metal.

Vacuum sanding that captures dust for a cleaner repair, better visibility, and a healthier shop.

Rust that can creep from a poorly protected repair seam; prevented by full priming and sealing.

Cleaning, masking, and priming a completed repair so it's ready for color and clearcoat.

The high-strength adhesive that bonds modern windshields, applied as a continuous triangular bead; adds body strength.

The recommended urethane bead shape for setting a windshield — seals evenly all the way around the opening.

The flanged metal edge around a glass opening that the urethane bonds to; bare metal here must be primed.

Primer applied to the pinch weld (and sometimes the glass frit) to prevent corrosion and promote urethane adhesion.

The minimum cure time before a urethane-set windshield can safely support the vehicle in a crash; must be observed.

Glass adhered to the body with urethane (windshield, backglass) rather than mechanically fastened.

Door and quarter glass that slides; adjusted parallel to the frame so it runs smoothly and seals correctly.

Heat-treated glass (side/rear windows) that shatters into small pieces; handle carefully to avoid sudden impacts.

Two glass layers bonded to a plastic interlayer (windshield) that holds the glass together when cracked.

Spraying water around a newly set glass to confirm there are no leaks before returning the vehicle.

The mechanism (cable or scissor) that raises and lowers door glass, driven by a motor or crank.

The electric motor that drives the regulator; checked after the fuse/breaker when a window won't move.

The first electrical items to check when a power window is dead — the simplest, most common cause.

Conductive grid lines on the backglass; breaks are found with a multimeter checking for continuity.

A meter used to check continuity and voltage — e.g., locating a break in a rear-defogger grid line.

PPE worn when handling automotive glass to protect hands from cuts during removal and installation.

Disconnect the battery before opening a door with a side airbag to prevent accidental deployment.

Refitting interior trim after glass work, reconnecting every electrical connector for proper function.

The rubber seal around glass and doors that blocks water and wind noise; window alignment affects its seal.

A resin used in glass chip repair to smooth the final repaired surface to a clear, level finish.

Aligning movable glass parallel to the door frame so it seals against the weatherstrip and operates smoothly.

The black ceramic border on bonded glass that hides and protects the urethane from UV; primed as specified.

Tools used to cut the old urethane and remove a bonded windshield without damaging the pinch weld.

An incomplete urethane bead or too-short cure that can let the windshield separate in a crash — a safety defect.

Bonded or movable rear glass; bonded units are set with urethane like a windshield.

Adjusting movable roof glass so it seals and drains correctly without leaks or wind noise.

Suction-cup handles used to position and set heavy bonded glass accurately onto the urethane bead.

Gas Metal Arc Welding — feeds a wire electrode under a shielding gas. The workhorse process for steel collision panels.

The primers, sealers, and coatings that must be restored to bare repaired metal — repairs strip the factory rust protection.

A series of short welds with cooling gaps between them, used to limit heat distortion when welding thin sheet panels.

75% argon / 25% CO2 — the common MIG gas for steel collision panels, balancing penetration, arc stability, and low spatter.

Squeeze-type resistance spot welding that reproduces factory spot welds by passing current through clamped metal.

A weld filling a pre-drilled hole in the top panel to fuse it to the panel beneath, simulating a spot weld with a MIG gun.

A tool that cuts high-strength and other steels precisely with minimal heat distortion, using an ionized gas arc.

A flame torch for cutting/heating; primary hazard is fire and explosion from the highly flammable gases.

Gas Tungsten Arc Welding — precise heat control and superior quality, often used for aluminum collision repair.

Lower-heat joining with a silicon-bronze wire, used per OEM to preserve high-strength steel properties.

Drilling or grinding out factory spot welds to separate a welded-on panel without damaging the structure.

How deeply a weld fuses into the base metal; controlled by gas, voltage, wire speed, and technique.

Bits of molten metal thrown from a weld; reduced with proper gas blend, settings, and clean metal.

Melting a hole in thin sheet from too much heat; prevented by correct settings and stitch welding.

Removing harmful fumes when welding, especially in confined spaces, to keep the air safe to breathe.

Removing flammable materials and having an extinguisher ready, since sparks and heat easily ignite them.

A practice weld on scrap of the same metal/thickness, destructively tested to verify settings before the real weld.

A cutting tool for body metal; use the appropriate blade for the metal type for clean, efficient cuts.

A pneumatic chisel used to cut or separate body metal during panel removal where appropriate.

A flexible sealant over welded/bonded seams that blocks water and air, prevents corrosion, and restores appearance.

A conductive primer applied between mating flanges before welding to protect the joint from corrosion.

An anti-corrosion coating sprayed into enclosed/boxed sections that can't be primed directly.

Material applied to repaired and enclosed areas to restore the rust protection removed during the repair.

Auto-darkening helmet, gloves, and flame-resistant clothing that protect from UV light, heat, and spatter.

Techniques (stitch welding, clamping, heat sinks) that limit warping of thin panels during welding.

The clamping force in STRSW; correct pressure is critical for proper metal fusion and weld strength.

Peeling or twisting a test weld apart to confirm it tore the base metal (a sound weld) rather than the weld itself.

Smoothing a finished weld flush; minimize removal so the weld isn't weakened, then re-protect the bare metal.

A clean, solid ground connection near the weld for consistent current flow and weld quality.

The welding energy delivered; too much warps and weakens, too little under-fuses — set for the metal and thickness.

Reproducing at least the factory number of welds (often plus extra) per OEM when re-attaching a panel.

The darkening level of the lens; too light risks eye damage (arc flash), so use the correct auto-darkening shade.

The metal beside a weld whose properties change from heat; minimized on high-strength steel by low-heat joining.

Gas pockets in a weld from contamination or poor shielding that weaken it; cleaned metal and good gas prevent it.

Intra-grip and locking clamps that hold panels tightly aligned for accurate, distortion-free welding.

Keeping weld-through primer thin at the weld so it conducts; excess causes porosity in the weld.

Pure argon shielding used for welding aluminum, which needs cleaner, more controlled shielding than steel.

A plastic that softens with heat and can be reshaped or welded, re-hardening on cooling (e.g., TPO, polypropylene).

A permanently cured plastic that chars rather than melts when heated; repaired with adhesives, not welding.

Determining the plastic type — by the molded-in ISO code and a hidden heat/grind test — to pick the right repair.

The molded-in marking (TPO, PP, PUR, ABS) on a part's backside identifying its composition and repair method.

A tool that melts and fuses thermoplastic with hot air and filler rod to repair cracks in bumpers and trim.

An epoxy/urethane adhesive used to repair thermoset (and many thermoplastic) parts that can't be heat-welded.

Grinding a V-shaped channel along both sides of a plastic crack to increase surface area for a stronger adhesive bond.

Fiberglass or metal mesh embedded on the backside of a plastic repair to add structural strength.

An elastomeric filler that flexes with a bumper or trim part so the repair won't crack as the panel moves.

A primer formulated to bend with flexible plastic so the finish doesn't crack; some need a flex additive.

A product applied to certain plastics (like raw TPO) so paint and adhesives will bond to the low-energy surface.

A solvent made for plastics used before repair to remove contaminants without damaging the substrate.

Using minimal heat on plastic repair to avoid warping or distorting the part.

A common bumper-cover thermoplastic; weldable with heat and usually needs an adhesion promoter for refinishing.

A widely used thermoplastic in bumpers and trim; repaired by plastic welding or compatible adhesives.

A flexible plastic often found in bumper covers; commonly repaired with two-part flexible adhesives.

A rigid thermoplastic used in interior and some exterior parts; repairable by welding or solvent/adhesive methods.

Restoring a cracked or torn plastic bumper cover with welding or adhesive, then a flexible filler and primer.

Removing too much material from a plastic part, thinning and weakening it; avoided to preserve strength.

Used to soften a flexible plastic part for reshaping back toward its original form before repair.

Cleaning, V-grooving, reinforcing, and filling a plastic crack so the repair is strong and flexible.

Matching the flexibility of fillers and primers to the plastic part so the repair bends without cracking.

How a thermoplastic flows when heated, indicating whether and how it can be plastic-welded.

Applying adhesive and mesh to the rear of a plastic crack to restore strength before finishing the front.

Removing deep scratches from hard plastic with coarse grit, then finer grits to smooth before refinishing.

Filler rod matched to the base plastic, melted into a V-groove to fuse and rebuild a thermoplastic repair.

Touching a hidden spot with solvent to help identify a plastic by whether it softens or is unaffected.