- Master cylinder
- Converts brake-pedal force into hydraulic pressure. A tandem (dual) design feeds two separate circuits so one leak still leaves half the brakes working.
- Tandem master cylinder
- A master cylinder with two pistons that feed two independent hydraulic circuits, providing a safety backup if one circuit leaks.
- Pascal's law
- Pressure applied to a confined fluid is transmitted equally in all directions, letting a small pedal force become large clamping force at every wheel.
- Brake fluid
- Hydraulic fluid (DOT 3, DOT 4, DOT 5.1) that transmits pedal pressure. Glycol-based fluids absorb moisture over time.
- DOT 3 brake fluid
- A glycol-based, hygroscopic brake fluid with a dry boiling point around 401°F (205°C). The most common factory fill.
- DOT 4 brake fluid
- A glycol-based, hygroscopic fluid with a higher boiling point than DOT 3; used where harder braking or ABS demands more heat resistance.
- DOT 5 brake fluid
- A silicone-based, non-hygroscopic fluid NOT compatible with most ABS systems; never mix it with DOT 3/4.
- Hygroscopic
- Describes glycol brake fluid that absorbs water from the air; moisture lowers the boiling point and promotes corrosion.
- Why flush brake fluid
- Absorbed moisture lowers the boiling point (risking fluid fade) and causes internal corrosion, so glycol fluid is flushed on a service schedule.
- Bleeding the brakes
- Forcing fluid through the system to push out trapped air that would otherwise compress and cause a soft, spongy pedal.
- Manual bleeding
- An assistant pumps and holds the pedal while you open and close each bleeder in sequence to expel air.
- Pressure bleeding
- Pressurized fluid is pushed from the master cylinder reservoir through the system to expel air without pumping the pedal.
- Vacuum bleeding
- A hand or machine vacuum pump draws fluid and air out at each bleeder screw.
- Gravity bleeding
- Open bleeders let fluid and air drip out under gravity alone; slow but needs no helper.
- Bleeding sequence
- Usually bleed the wheel farthest from the master cylinder first, then work closer, unless the service manual specifies otherwise.
- Spongy/soft pedal
- Almost always air in the hydraulic system; bleed the brakes to restore a firm pedal.
- Low/sinking pedal
- Caused by a fluid leak, worn linings, or a master cylinder leaking internally past its cups.
- Pedal slowly drops while held
- An internally leaking master cylinder bleeding pressure past its piston cups; replace the master cylinder.
- Hard pedal (high effort)
- Loss of power assist — a failed vacuum booster, leaking check valve, or no engine vacuum.
- Brake lines
- Steel tubing (often with a double flare or ISO/bubble flare) that carries pressurized fluid to the brakes; never use compression fittings.
- Brake hose (flex line)
- Flexible reinforced hose connecting rigid lines to a moving wheel/caliper; can collapse internally and act as a one-way restriction.
- Double flare
- A reinforced flare on steel brake line that folds the tubing back on itself to seal high pressure without cracking.
- ISO (bubble) flare
- A metric brake-line flare that forms a rounded bubble seal; do not interchange with a double flare.
- Proportioning valve
- Reduces pressure to the rear brakes during hard stops to keep the rear wheels from locking before the front.
- Metering valve
- Briefly holds off front-disc pressure at low application so rear drum brakes apply at the same time, balancing braking.
- Combination valve
- Combines the metering, proportioning, and pressure-differential functions in one body, often with a brake warning switch.
- Pressure differential switch
- Detects unequal pressure between the two hydraulic circuits and lights the red brake warning lamp if one side fails.
- Residual pressure valve
- Maintains a small pressure in drum-brake circuits to keep wheel-cylinder cups seated and speed re-apply.
- Power brake booster
- Multiplies pedal force using engine vacuum on a diaphragm so light pedal effort makes high line pressure.
- Vacuum booster
- A power-assist unit using intake-manifold vacuum on a diaphragm to boost braking force.
- Booster check valve
- A one-way valve that traps vacuum in the booster after the engine stops, giving a reserve for a few assisted applications.
- Booster test (running)
- Pump the pedal off to deplete vacuum, hold it, then start the engine — the pedal should drop as assist comes in.
- Hydro-boost
- A power-assist system using power-steering pump hydraulic pressure instead of engine vacuum; common on diesels and heavy vehicles.
- Manual brakes
- Brakes with no power assist; require higher pedal effort and have no booster to diagnose.
- Parking brake
- Applies the rear brakes mechanically (cable, drum-in-hat, or integrated caliper) independent of the hydraulics, so it works if hydraulics fail.
- Parking-brake adjustment
- Set the rear base brakes to spec first, then adjust the cable at the equalizer; never mask worn linings with cable tension.
- Cable equalizer
- The yoke that splits parking-brake cable tension evenly to both rear wheels.
- Electric parking brake (EPB)
- A motor-applied parking brake; many need a scan-tool service mode to retract the motor before rear-pad service.
- Drum-in-hat parking brake
- A small drum brake inside the center of a rear disc-brake rotor that serves only as the parking brake.
- Brake warning lamp (red)
- Indicates low fluid, a hydraulic circuit failure (pressure differential), or the parking brake applied — not ABS.
- Brake fade
- A loss of stopping power from heat — overheated linings (mechanical fade) or boiled fluid forming vapor (fluid fade).
- Mechanical (lining) fade
- Overheated friction material loses its coefficient of friction, giving a hard pedal that won't stop the car.
- Fluid fade
- Boiled brake fluid forms compressible vapor, giving a spongy, sinking pedal under hard or repeated braking.
- Friction (brakes)
- The mechanism that converts the vehicle's kinetic energy into heat to slow it; brakes are essentially heat machines.
- Coefficient of friction
- A rating of how much grip a lining provides against the rotor/drum; affects stopping power and fade resistance.
- Pedal free play
- The small pedal travel before the pushrod begins to move the master-cylinder piston; too little can hold brakes applied.
- Master cylinder pushrod length
- Sets where braking begins; too long holds the brakes partially applied (drag); too short delays braking.
- Brake bleeder screw
- A valve at each wheel cylinder/caliper opened to let air and old fluid escape during bleeding.
- Bench bleeding
- Bleeding a new master cylinder on the bench before installation to remove air from its bores.
- Brake light switch
- Mounted at the pedal; turns on the stop lamps when the pedal is pressed and inputs to cruise/ABS.
- Dual-circuit split (diagonal)
- Each circuit serves one front and the opposite rear wheel, so a leak still leaves balanced braking on a diagonal.
- Front/rear split
- Older split where one circuit serves both fronts and the other both rears.
- Stop-lamp function
- Brake lamps warn following traffic; a burned bulb or bad switch is a safety/inspection failure.
- Brake pedal ratio
- Pedal leverage that multiplies foot force before the booster and master cylinder; part of total braking force.
- Reservoir
- The fluid container atop the master cylinder; low level warns of leaks or worn linings.
- Contaminated brake fluid
- Petroleum (oil) contamination swells rubber seals and cups; the system must be flushed and seals replaced.
- Brake drag (hydraulic cause)
- Residual pressure, a swollen seal, a tight pushrod, or a restricted return can hold brakes applied and overheat them.
- Wheel cylinder
- The hydraulic cylinder in a drum brake that pushes the shoes outward against the drum (covered under drum service too).
- Brake pressure gauge test
- Tapping a gauge into the system to compare line pressures and identify restrictions or low output.
- Stop-light brake-pull cause
- A restricted (collapsed) flex hose can hold one caliper applied, dragging and pulling that side.
- Master cylinder cups
- Rubber seals on the master-cylinder pistons; worn cups leak internally and let the pedal sink.
- Vacuum supply for booster
- Manifold vacuum (or a vacuum pump on turbo/diesel engines) feeds the booster; low vacuum = weak assist.
- Power-assist loss symptom
- A sudden hard, high pedal that takes much more effort to stop the car.
- Brake fluid boiling point (dry vs wet)
- Dry = fresh fluid; wet = after absorbing 3.7% water — the wet point is much lower, which is why fluid is flushed.
- Banjo fitting
- A hollow bolt-and-eye hydraulic connection (often at a caliper) sealed with copper crush washers.
- Copper crush washers
- One-time sealing washers at banjo fittings; replace them whenever the fitting is opened.
- Brake hose inspection
- Check for cracks, bulges, leaks, and internal collapse; a bad hose can cause pull, drag, or a pedal complaint.
- Wheel-cylinder leak sign
- Wet, oily linings and fluid behind the dust boot; replace the wheel cylinder and contaminated shoes.
- Brake fluid level vs wear
- As disc pads wear, the caliper pistons extend and fluid level drops — a slowly falling level can simply mean worn pads.
- Two-pound residual valve
- Keeps slight pressure on drum circuits; not used on disc circuits, where it would cause drag.
- Brake fluid color/condition
- Dark, dirty fluid signals moisture and corrosion and the need for a flush; fresh fluid is clear to amber.
- ABS-compatible fluid
- Use the DOT 3/4/5.1 glycol fluid specified; silicone DOT 5 is not used in ABS-equipped vehicles.
- Pedal pulsation (non-ABS)
- Without an active ABS stop, pulsation traces to rotor runout or thickness variation.
- Brake pull (definition)
- The vehicle veers to one side when braking because one side brakes harder than the other.
- Brake balance
- Proper front-to-rear and side-to-side force distribution for straight, stable stops.
- Stop lamp + ABS interaction
- The brake switch tells the ABS module the brakes are applied; a faulty switch can disable some functions.
- Fluid leak diagnosis
- Inspect lines, hoses, wheel cylinders, calipers, and the master cylinder; a sinking pedal with no leak = internal master-cylinder leak.
- Brake warning vs ABS lamp
- The red BRAKE lamp = hydraulic/parking-brake/fluid issue; the amber ABS lamp = electronic brake control issue.
- Hard line vs flex line
- Rigid steel lines run along the body; flexible hoses bridge to moving suspension and steering parts.
- Brake fluid reservoir cap diaphragm
- Flexes to keep air off the fluid (limiting moisture absorption) as level drops with pad wear.
- Wheel cylinder bleeding
- Bleed drum wheel cylinders like any wheel — open the bleeder, expel air, keep the reservoir full.
- Pedal goes to floor (sudden)
- A blown line/hose or massive leak; the split system should still give partial braking on the good circuit.
- Brake fluid spec source
- Always use the DOT rating and type listed in the owner's manual or on the reservoir cap.
- Power booster diaphragm leak
- Lets vacuum leak into the engine (rough idle) and reduces assist; replace the booster.
- Parking brake holds, foot brake fails
- Because the parking brake is mechanical, it can hold the car even if the hydraulic system has failed.
- Brake warning lamp self-check
- The red brake lamp briefly lights at start-up to prove the bulb works, then goes out.
- Disc brake
- Clamps friction pads against a spinning rotor with a caliper; cools well and resists fade, so it's used on most front brakes.
- Brake rotor (disc)
- The cast-iron disc the pads clamp; checked for thickness, minimum thickness, parallelism, and runout.
- Caliper
- The clamp housing the disc-brake pistons and pads; can be floating (sliding) or fixed.
- Floating (sliding) caliper
- Has pistons on only one side and slides on pins/guides so both pads clamp the rotor evenly.
- Fixed caliper
- Has pistons on both sides of the rotor and does not slide; common on performance vehicles.
- Caliper slide pins
- Lubricated pins that let a floating caliper move; seized pins cause uneven pad wear and a pull.
- Brake pads
- The friction blocks a caliper presses against the rotor; replaced in axle sets.
- Minimum rotor thickness
- The thinnest a rotor may safely be, cast/stamped into it; a rotor below it must be replaced.
- Machine-to (refinish) thickness
- A spec slightly thicker than discard, so a turned rotor keeps a safety margin; not the same as minimum thickness.
- Lateral runout
- Side-to-side wobble of a spinning rotor, measured with a dial indicator; excess runout causes pulsation.
- Rotor thickness variation
- Uneven rotor thickness that makes clamping force rise and fall, causing pedal pulsation and shimmy.
- Measuring rotor thickness
- Use a micrometer at several points around the rotor; compare to minimum and refinish specs.
- Measuring rotor runout
- Mount a dial indicator against the rotor face and rotate it to read side-to-side movement.
- Vented rotor
- A rotor with internal cooling vanes between two friction faces to shed heat and resist fade.
- Solid rotor
- A single-piece rotor without internal vanes, used where cooling demand is lower (often rears).
- Brake pull (disc)
- Uneven side-to-side force from a seized caliper, restricted hose, or contaminated pads.
- Brake squeal
- High-frequency noise from vibration, missing anti-rattle hardware, glazed linings, or worn pads.
- Brake pad wear indicator
- A metal tab or sensor that squeals or lights a lamp when the pad nears its wear limit.
- Grinding noise (metal on metal)
- Pads worn out so the backing plate contacts the rotor; the rotor is likely damaged.
- Caliper piston
- The hydraulic piston that pushes the pad against the rotor; can seize from corrosion and drag a brake.
- Caliper retraction (push-in)
- On most front calipers, the piston is pushed straight back into its bore to fit new, thicker pads.
- Caliper retraction (screw-in)
- Rear calipers with an integrated parking brake usually require the piston to be screwed (turned) in, not pushed.
- Pad anti-rattle hardware
- Clips and shims that keep pads from vibrating; missing hardware causes squeal and uneven wear.
- Caliper mounting bracket
- Holds the caliper to the knuckle; pads ride in its abutments, which should be cleaned and lubricated.
- Rotor parallelism
- The two friction faces must be parallel within spec; non-parallel faces cause thickness variation and pulsation.
- Glazed pads/rotor
- A hard, shiny friction surface from overheating that reduces grip and causes squeal.
- Contaminated pads
- Oil, grease, or brake fluid on a pad ruins its friction and causes pulling or grabbing; replace the pads.
- Rotor scoring
- Grooves cut into the rotor face by worn or embedded pads; machine if within spec, otherwise replace.
- On-car (on-vehicle) lathe
- Machines a rotor while it's still on the hub to minimize assembled runout.
- Bench brake lathe
- Machines a removed rotor or drum to true the friction surfaces.
- Caliper hardware kit
- Clips, boots, and pins replaced with pads to keep the caliper sliding and quiet.
- Pad bedding (break-in)
- A series of moderate stops that transfers an even friction layer to the rotor for quiet, smooth braking.
- Disc brake dust boot
- A rubber seal that keeps dirt and water off the caliper piston and bore.
- Caliper piston seal
- A square-cut seal that both seals fluid and retracts (rolls back) the piston slightly to release the brake.
- Why discs resist fade
- Open rotor faces and vents dissipate heat to the air far better than an enclosed drum.
- Self-adjusting discs
- Disc brakes adjust automatically as the piston seal lets the piston follow pad wear.
- Brake pedal shimmy/shake
- Felt in the pedal or steering when braking; usually rotor runout or thickness variation.
- Stuck caliper symptom
- One wheel runs hot, the car pulls, and fuel economy drops because the brake drags.
- Rotor minimum vs discard
- Same idea — the rotor must be replaced once it reaches the cast-in minimum/discard thickness.
- Semi-metallic pads
- Contain steel fibers for high heat capacity and fade resistance, but can be noisier and more abrasive.
- Ceramic pads
- Produce less dust and noise and are gentle on rotors, with good everyday performance.
- Organic (NAO) pads
- Non-asbestos organic pads that are quiet and soft but wear faster and fade sooner under heavy use.
- Pad backing plate
- The steel plate the friction material is bonded/riveted to; worn-through pads grind it on the rotor.
- Caliper bleeder location
- Position the bleeder at the top of the caliper so air rises to it during bleeding.
- Rotor 'hot spots'/hard spots
- Localized hardened areas from extreme heat that cause thickness variation and pulsation.
- Brake judder
- Vibration during braking from rotor thickness variation or runout.
- Disc pad minimum thickness
- Replace pads before the friction material reaches the manufacturer's minimum to protect the rotor.
- Antilock brake system (ABS)
- Rapidly releases and reapplies brake pressure at any wheel about to lock, so tires keep rolling and the driver keeps steering control.
- Why ABS matters
- Preventing lockup lets the driver steer while braking hard and stop in a straight line, especially on slippery roads.
- Wheel speed sensor
- Reports each wheel's speed to the ABS module; a wheel slowing much faster than the others signals impending lockup.
- Passive (magnetic) wheel speed sensor
- A magnet-and-coil sensor that generates AC voltage as a toothed tone ring passes; output rises with speed.
- Active wheel speed sensor
- A Hall-effect/magneto-resistive sensor that gives a clean digital signal even at very low speed.
- Tone (reluctor) ring
- The toothed ring the wheel speed sensor reads; damaged teeth or debris cause erratic signals and ABS codes.
- ABS control module (EBCM)
- The computer that compares wheel speeds and commands the modulator to prevent lockup.
- Hydraulic modulator
- The ABS valve-and-pump assembly that isolates, dumps, and re-applies pressure at the locking wheel.
- ABS solenoid valves
- Isolation and dump valves inside the modulator that hold, release, and reapply pressure during an ABS event.
- ABS pump/motor
- Restores pressure to the circuit after the dump valve releases it during an ABS stop.
- ABS pedal pulsation
- Normal feedback felt when the modulator cycles rapidly during a hard stop; do not pump the pedal.
- ABS cycling rate
- The modulator can release and reapply pressure many times per second (about 4–20 Hz) at a locking wheel.
- Amber ABS warning lamp
- Means the system has set a fault and disabled ABS/TCS/ESC; base hydraulic braking still works.
- Base braking still works
- Even with the ABS lamp on, the normal hydraulic brakes function — only the anti-lock/stability features are off.
- Traction control (TCS)
- Limits wheelspin during acceleration by braking a spinning drive wheel and/or cutting engine power; shares ABS hardware.
- Electronic stability control (ESC)
- Brakes individual wheels and cuts power, using yaw and steering-angle sensors, to correct understeer/oversteer.
- Yaw rate sensor
- Measures the car's rotation about its vertical axis; an ESC input for detecting a skid.
- Steering angle sensor
- Tells ESC the driver's intended path so it can compare it to the car's actual motion.
- Lateral (G) accelerometer
- Measures side force; an ESC input used with yaw and steering angle to detect loss of control.
- Understeer
- The front tires lose grip and the car plows straight; ESC may brake an inside rear wheel to help it turn.
- Oversteer
- The rear steps out and the car spins; ESC may brake an outside front wheel to straighten it.
- ESC mandate (US)
- Electronic stability control has been required on U.S. light vehicles since the 2012 model year.
- Scan tool (ABS)
- Reads ABS/ESC trouble codes and live data and can command the modulator for diagnosis.
- ABS code from one wheel
- A single slow/erratic wheel-speed signal (bad sensor, gap, or tone ring) is a classic ABS fault.
- Wheel speed sensor air gap
- The clearance between sensor and tone ring; too large or full of debris weakens the signal and sets codes.
- ABS self-test
- On start-up the module checks itself and the lamp goes out; a lamp staying on indicates a stored fault.
- ABS on gravel/snow
- ABS can lengthen stopping distance on loose gravel or deep snow, where a locked wheel piles material to help stop.
- Integrated vs non-integrated ABS
- Integrated systems combine the master cylinder/booster with the modulator; non-integrated add the modulator to a conventional system.
- ABS modulator bleeding
- Some ABS units require a scan-tool-commanded bleed cycle to purge air from the modulator valves.
- Brake assist (BA)
- Detects a panic stop (fast pedal) and applies maximum boost to shorten stopping distance.
- Electronic brakeforce distribution (EBD)
- Uses the ABS hardware to balance front-to-rear braking electronically, replacing a mechanical proportioning valve.
- Hill-hold/hill-start assist
- Holds brake pressure briefly on an incline so the car doesn't roll back as the driver moves to the accelerator.
- Wheel speed comparison
- ABS works by comparing the four wheel speeds; the slowest-decelerating logic flags impending lockup.
- ABS during normal braking
- ABS stays dormant and the brakes feel normal; it only activates when a wheel is about to lock.
- ESC 'off' switch
- Lets the driver reduce or disable stability/traction control (e.g., to rock a stuck car); it re-enables at restart.
- ABS warning + red brake lamp together
- Both lamps on can mean a serious fault or low fluid affecting EBD — diagnose before driving.
- Reluctor ring on bearing/CV
- Tone rings are often pressed onto the hub bearing or axle; damage there sets a wheel-speed code.
- ABS connector/wiring fault
- Corroded or chafed sensor wiring is a common cause of intermittent ABS codes.
- Magnetic vs Hall sensor at low speed
- Passive (magnetic) sensors lose signal at very low speed; active (Hall) sensors read down to near zero.
- ABS pump noise on apply
- A buzz or groan from the modulator during an ABS stop is normal operation, not a failure.
- Drum brake
- A wheel cylinder pushes shoes outward against a rotating drum; self-energizing, cheap, and common on rear axles.
- Brake drum
- The rotating iron drum the shoes press against; measured for inside diameter, taper, and out-of-round.
- Brake shoe
- The curved friction member in a drum brake; the primary (forward) shoe usually has the shorter lining.
- Wheel cylinder (drum)
- The hydraulic cylinder that pushes the shoes apart against the drum when the pedal is applied.
- Self-energizing (servo) action
- The rotating drum drags the leading shoe tighter against itself, multiplying braking force.
- Dual-servo drum brake
- Both shoes wedge into the drum for strong, low-effort holding, which suits parking-brake duty.
- Primary shoe
- The forward (leading) shoe, usually with the shorter lining; it actuates the secondary shoe via servo action.
- Secondary shoe
- The rear (trailing) shoe, usually with the longer lining; it does most of the braking work.
- Maximum drum diameter
- The largest inside diameter a drum may be worn or machined to, stamped on the drum; over it, replace the drum.
- Measuring a drum
- Use a drum micrometer to check inside diameter, taper, and out-of-round against the max-diameter spec.
- Drum out-of-round
- An unevenly worn drum that isn't a true circle, causing pulsation or grab; machine or replace.
- Drum taper
- A drum worn wider at one edge than the other; checked when measuring inside diameter.
- Return springs
- Pull the shoes back off the drum when the pedal is released; weak springs cause drag.
- Hold-down springs
- Keep the shoes against the backing plate while allowing them to move outward to the drum.
- Self-adjuster (star wheel)
- A screw mechanism that maintains shoe-to-drum clearance; many adjust during reverse stops.
- Drum brake adjustment too tight
- Causes drag, overheating, and a pull or grab; back off the star wheel to spec.
- Drum brake adjustment too loose
- Gives a low pedal and excessive travel before the brakes apply.
- Backing plate
- The stamped plate that holds the wheel cylinder, shoes, and hardware; its pads should be cleaned and lubricated.
- Brake adjusting tool (spoon)
- Used through a slot in the backing plate to turn the star-wheel self-adjuster.
- Drum brake leading/trailing
- A non-servo design where one shoe leads and one trails; less self-energizing than dual-servo.
- Shoe lining replacement
- Replace shoes in axle sets and refinish or replace drums so both sides brake evenly.
- Bleeding drum wheel cylinders
- Open the bleeder atop the wheel cylinder and expel air, keeping the reservoir full.
- Contaminated drum linings
- Fluid from a leaking wheel cylinder or grease ruins the linings; replace shoes and fix the leak.
- Drum brake squeal/grind
- Worn-out linings, a scored drum, or missing hardware; grinding means metal-to-metal contact.
- Drum-in-hat
- A small drum brake in the center of a rear disc rotor used only as the parking brake.
- Drum machining limit
- If turning a drum to clean it would exceed the max diameter, replace the drum instead.
- Drum brake parking-brake link
- The strut and lever that spread the shoes when the parking-brake cable pulls.